The 'Worm' in Mezcal opus 873
| 3 July 2026 1701 Hours | | Diet, Anthropology, Custom, Entomology, Food, History, Science |
I am familiar with tequila, produced from the Mexican agave plant.
Tequila is a type of mezcal with its own name.
Mezcal is also harvested from agave, but from near the roots.
In the commercial 'tourist' brand, a 'worm,' actually a caterpillar,
The agave redworm moth (Comadia redtenbacheri),
The gusano de maguey ('agave worm') was added to a brand of Mezcal.
This 'worm' was incorporated into the mezcal of Jacobo Lozano Páez
Around 1940 or 1950 as a gimmick for tourists, distinguishing it from tequila.
Paez discovered that the 'worm' altered his mezcal's color and flavor.
The agave worm has been a protein-rich delicacy
In Oaxacan and Aztec cuisine for centuries,
Consumed in tacos or ground into 'sal de gusano' (worm salt).
Putting it into commercial mezcal was a modern invention.
Zapotec people in Mitla and Ocotlán, Oaxaca,
Have long been adding the 'worm' to their mezcal
To smoothen the 'bouquet' and augment the flavor
Long before the commercial trend.
Specifically, the 'worm' alters the mezcal's chemistry and harshness.
The alcohol breaks down the larva's lipids and fatty acids.
This alters the taste to an earthy and meaty (umami) flavor.
Tests have demonstrated a higher concentration of
Unsaturated compounds and unsaturated alcohols.
The larva's organic matter acts as a natural filter
And mellowing agent.
It softens the strong, sharp edges of the mezcal,
And imbibers report a silkier, softer feeling in the mouth.
There is also a subtle sweet-and-sour effervescence.
An orange slice is often eaten with mezcal,
Where the slice is dipped in 'sal de gusano' (worm salt),
(A mixture of toasted ground agave larvae, chili peppers,
And sea salt),
Giving a match to the savory, earthy flavor of the 'wormed' mezcal.